This is a Canon 5D MkII to 1.25" Telescope adapter. May require sanding for precise fit. Printed and tested on a Solidoodle 2 at .2mm with black PLA plastic Won't click into place like a normal lens, but will support camera (although I wouldn't try it with a battery grip) the lighter the camera is the better. Extra support is always recommended. I am not responsible for any broken cameras, USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!
A printable clutch (purse, evening bag, etc) for desktop 3D printers. I've been a big fan of Zomboe's things, and have been eyeing his chainmail designs since I bought my TOM last year. There are lots of 3D printed fabric applications for pro-grade printers on shape ways, etc, but not for use on reprap or makerbot style printers. Building some awesome and wearable feminine accessories has been on my to do list for awhile. Goals: 1. Functional purse that will hold an iphone. 2. Print and assemble without glue 3. Attractive and durable enough to actually use. I did not succeed on these counts. This project is less a work in progress, than an abandoned proof of concept. But, it's time to get it off my hard drive and out on the web. I expect to try again, with some lessons learned. The problems: 1. This took 24 hours to slice in RepG. That's longer than I want to wait, and too long to iterate quickly. I either need to simplify the geometry somewhat, or use a newer and faster slicer. 2. It's difficult to get every corner to stick to the platform, especially with a second extruder interfering and prying up a loose ends. Aggressive solutions like applying ABS slurry to the platform result in a less than desirable surface finish, and a lot of kapton tape to peel off the print. One missing square, and the print is ruined. There are about 5 holes in my print. 3. I haven't solved how the sides go together. Currently, I think a blanket stitch with plastic lacing used in kids' friendship braclets or embroidery floss should suffice. But it's not a great solution. 4. To be functional, this design really needs a chain or wristlet loop. 5. I could make a nicer looking design if I altered my approach from no-glue-snap-together, to allowing multiple pieces. 6. The hinge works well, but needs to be a little beefier to hold up. I was happy with how pretty and shiny the fabric looks. With a more attractive shape and clasp, I'd wear it. There are cool options for textile prints with dual extrusion if I could just get everything to stick better. The "fabric" only bends in one axis on each side, which you should take into account if use it in another way.
Based upon the famous walking Strandbeest from Theo Jansen ( strandbeest.com ). This is a modular clip together system that is FDM printer friendly. No support required. I have curved the links in an organic way such that the shape of the leg section looks ahem "bra" like, hence the name. If you are having trouble with the cranks, try this re-mixed version from Vivifyer: thingiverse.com/thing:207351 See videos : youtu.be/PdvfL4GfMk0 youtu.be/vUjEQ_0bEqg gyrobot.co.uk facebook.com/gyrobotuk
It's finally here! See instructions for details. Many parts are optional. Early test flight: youtu.be/IVNpG9oJvUg I modified Thingiverse user ennui2342's tricopter body, based off of David Windestal RCExplorer tricopter, to support the stronger, more common (in the US) 1/2inch wood dowels. Other modifications were made as well. I also loosely based my landing gear/motor mounts off of jphillips' designs. The vibration dampening bottom plates among other features are unique to this tricopter. **Update**: I added "optional-plate_larger_motor_mounts_kit.stl" which supports larger (unnecessary) motors that use an 18.9/25mm through 25/25mm mounting hole spacing. **Update 2**: I don't know if there is a demand for them, but I designed extra-long versions of the landing gear/motor-mounts (22mm taller). They are published as "optional-plate_larger-longer_motor_mounts_kit.stl" and "optional-plate_standard-longer_motor_mounts_kit.stl" **Update 3**: I added a bonus IMU shield for exposed IMUs and flight control PCBs (imu-shield.stl). View later picture to see how it is mounted. You will need some VHB tape and soft foam as well. This not only protects the IMU, but also mitigates undesired noise from exposed digital barometers. (not included in the "full plate") **Update 4**: Fixed and reuploaded "optional-plate_3_esc_clips.stl". Original file was malformed and causing errors in some slicers. For a full, more detailed write-up, visit: goo.gl/K1WBVQ
Expect updates to this thing! I will also upload a STEP file for easier editing! These are the OpenRC car shocks for 1:10 RC car. I have replaced all my original shocks and will continue develop these. Consider it a proof of concept and experimental though. Hardness of the spring can be adjusted by adding/removing "rings" or change the shape of them. Spring needs to be printed in Nylon to work! 1 pcs 50mm M3 screw needed and two smaller ones to keep the "lid" in place. Check out the video for a short demo: youtu.be/oeTo3QebAZM
This stand is inspired by the contour of the iMac, Thunderbolt Display, and Cinema Display by Apple. There are similar products available online that are made of aluminum, but I wanted one to call my own. I recently bought a gently used Apple Cinema Display and I needed something to make the two screens level with one another.
Another set of z-rod knobs. All measurements are configurable in the OpenSCAD file. Printed as is will be snug but works well. Inspired by a few knobs out here, but I wanted to close the top and allow the nut to recess more for a cleaner look. Also wanted to play with some parametric settings for the knob grips, nut and recess dimensions.